NextStepDesigns

Suffering from suspension knock? Out of warranty?  An excellent how-to article was posted by Disco_Mikey on www.disco3.co.uk with pictures and part numbers on how to add the newly released rubber isolation shims that help prevent the anti-sway bars from knocking about. This will help!

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic30622.html 

Suffering from suspension knock? Out of warranty?  An excellent how-to article was posted by Disco_Mikey on www.disco3.co.uk with pictures and part numbers on how to replace the front lower ball joints.  This will help!

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic30622.html 

I get asked a lot of questions from prospective LR3 owners about the sanity of buying a used LR3.  I will answer it this way, I plan on buying another LR3 myself as soon as I am able to, and it will probably be a used 2007 V8 SE or HSE with a rear locker.

A typical question that I am asked, looks something like this (in fact, this is a question I was just recently asked!):
—————————–
“Hi Nathan, I am looking at LR3s and I will likely buy one very soon. I know a lot about RRCs and Disco II because I have owned both. However, I do not know much about the LR3. I have found a V6 2005 with only 17K miles on it for $21K. It is very clean. Would you recommend the V8 over the V6? The V6 compared to my Disco II and RRC seem to have enough power.  This V6 is a certified pre-owned at a LR dealer and has warranty that has been extended for 2 years on top of the factory warranty. It does not have any extras on it…heated seats, NAV, or upgraded lights.

I see a lot of V8 on the market. I can find one for about the same price as the V6 but with 30K miles. Some have NAV and cold weather package.

Thanks for your feedback. 

———————

Here is my response:

Yes, I have the V6, it has way more power than all the older Rover V8’s that have come before it.  I can run rings around them.  I have never lacked for power in any on-road or off-road situation.  However, I can’t use the cruise control in hilly areas.  In my opinion (and others have verified this), the V6 is mated to the transmission even better than the V8.  It’s really seamless.  However, having said all that, I cannot think of any reason to get the V6 over the V8. When I buy another LR3, it will be a V8.  The extra hp makes the 6,000  lbs truck seem more nimble on the road, and the torque is bottomless on the trail.  In the V6, I use the Command Shift like a manual transmission to keep things lively.  In the V8, you never really need to take it out of drive unless you are descending a steep hill and need 1st gear.

You do not need the bi-xeon light upgrade, but it is very nice.  However, you can upgrade for about $350 on your own afterwards.

The Nav system is not very good, but the 4×4 screen can be very helpful because it shows your front wheel orientation (useful in the rocks).  The little message center above the steering wheel will also do this, so if you don’t have the Nav, its still okay.  I would not sweat it at all if you don’t get one with Nav.  Besides, the dash cubby is very convenient, and Garmins are cheap.

The heated seats and windshields are awesome!  Try very hard to get one with the cold weather package.  They are very convenient and I use them a surprising amount.  My kids love them too, and call them “waffle seats”  I swear you can cook toast on the high setting…

Certified pre-owned is the ONLY way to get one.  The factory extended warranty has recently skyrocketed in price, so getting one via certified is the only way to go.  I currently do not have an extended warranty, and I am past the 50,000 mile factory warranty, so I am not exactly practicing what I preach, but that’s due to my financial situation, not my desire to eschew the coverage.

The difference in sound quality between the HSE’s 550w stereo and the SE’s 220w stereo is almost worth the couple of extra grand the HSE costs…better seats too

I’m pretty agnostic between 2005/2006 model years. They both had similar problems that have ALL been fixed by the dealer network by now. They are solid, dependable vehicles.  The 2007’s have seats that worked without the ignition key, and one-touch  passenger window, which is nice.  The seat thing is pretty darn handy if you have kids and need to flip the middle seats up and down frequently.

The 5 seater has better middle row seats. There is lots of hidden storage beneath and behind them.  If you are ambivalent about 5 or 7 seater, and want to maximize storage space, it’s something to think about.  But its not a deal breaker one way or another unless you definately need to haul more people than gear.

Things to look out for in a used LR3:
- test drive on dirt or loose/broken pavement.  If there is “knocking” felt through the steering console, the bushings are shot. They are the one true weak spot in an otherwise extremely durable rig.
- worn bushings in the front suspension control arms
- worn bushings in the front and rear sway bars.  Grab them and wiggle it.  If it moves, point it out and try to get them replaced.
- tire alignment all 4 corners.  I get mine done every 4 months, and it needs it!
- test all the CD holders in the radio.  Sometimes they stick, and the only fix that I’m aware of is to replace the head unit.
- Sunroof rails.  The tracks on either side of the sunroof grow brittle and crack.  Expensive to fix, have this done by the dealer before you take it home.
Of course, if you are reading this blog, you probably already know about the HD package.  If you find one, great! If your timing and finances push you towards one without, no big deal.  The Traction Control is more than good enough to compensate.  It takes more skill and finesse maybe (just barely), but there will never be an obstacle you can’t do that a locked one can.  But, for a dedicated off road truck, the rear locker is high on the wish list to look for.  There are no aftermarket options for lockers.
The center console refrig is pretty weak.  Works okay, but not an important option, you can add one later if you wish.

Front PDC (distance sensor) is a pain in the ……, the rear is fantastic.  Many people have the front disabled soon after ownership.

The Bluetooth handsfree thing works pretty well and I recommend it.
It’s easy to add a true iPod connector that plugs into the bottom of your iPod and gets you power and high level input audio.  I added mine for about $100, installed, at a stereo shop.  Damm that HSE sound system rocks compared to mine….

Good luck and happy hunting.

Reprinted from a post from MustBeAudi on Land Rover World forums:

Uneven tire wear.
The steering alignment geometry of certain vehicles may experience some bushing settlement during early vehicle life. Following initial production geometry setting, this settling may alter the geometry settings outside of normal tolerance, which may in turn increase tire wear.

Revised geometry settings introduced after 6A403382 compensate for this situation.
NOTE: This situation is not experienced on all vehicles. Toe sensitivity may be attributed to other factors.

CAUTION: Retailers who sublet alignment to outside shops must provide the information in this bulletin to the alignment facility to ensure proper settings when uneven tire wear symptoms are being addressed. Additionally all vehicles equipped with EAS sent for sublet alignment MUST have been placed in the “tight tolerance” geometry setting mode prior to delivery using IDS.

Action: Should a customer express a specific concern of uneven tire wear, refer to the Repair Procedure detailed in this bulletin to adjust the vehicle geometry to the “target” settings noted below. NOTE: In other situations requiring geometry adjustment, where a specific concern of uneven tire wear is not expressed or diagnosed, the geometry dimensions in the workshop manual should be used. A specific set of “target” geometry data is provided in this bulletin for use in vehicles where the geometry needs to be adjusted to correct an uneven tire wear concern.

PARTS:
No parts required

WARRANTY:
NOTE: Repair procedures are under constant review, and therefore times are subject to change; those quoted here must be taken as guidance only. Always refer to DDW to obtain the latest repair time.

NOTE: The revision to the time in this bulletin is the result of the introduction of the new IDS “tight tolerance” geometry setting mode for suspension adjustments. This simple IDS process replaces and eliminates the requirement to perform a suspension calibration (1.1 hrs) in association with the alignment process. Refer to Technical Bulletin LA204-007 for additional information about the geometry setting mode. DDW requires the use of causal part numbers.
Labor only claims must show the causal part number with a quantity of zero.
Description SRO Time
(Hours)
Condition
Code Causal Part
Place vehicle in “tight tolerance”
mode using IDS and align suspension
geometry
57.65.04 1.80 W6 ALGN4W

Normal warranty policy and procedures apply.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
ALIGN SUSPENSION GEOMETRY

1. If the vehicle has Electronic Air Suspension (EAS), refer to Technical Bulletin LA204-007, connect IDS to the vehicle and place the Electronic Air Suspension (EAS), into “tight tolerance” geometry setting mode.

NOTE: A small number of coil sprung vehicles were imported into North America at the very start of LR3 importation. Step 2 is included in the event that such a vehicle requires suspension alignment.

2. If the vehicle has coil spring suspension, perform the following steps to ensure that the equivalent of a full tank of gasoline weight is present in the vehicle when the alignment process is performed:
NOTE: LR3 fuel tank capacity is 22.7 US gallons (86.3 litres). A full LR3 fuel tank weighs approximately 152 lbs (69 kg).
• Accurately determine the volume of fuel in the tank.
• If the tank is not full, calculate the weight of the fuel in the tank using one of the following formulas:
o Multiply the number of US gallons of fuel by 6.7 to equal total pounds of fuel.
o Multiply the number of liters of fuel by 0.8 to equal total kg of fuel.
NOTE: Any weight equivalent placed into the load space area must be evenly distributed at the front and the right hand side of the load space.
• Calculate the weight equivalent that must be added to the load space area by subtracting the total amount of fuel currently in the tank from the LR3 fuel tank capacity of 152 lbs. (69 kg).
NOTE: Vehicles that have any of the front or rear, upper or lower control arm bushings changed must complete a ten mile road test before having the geometry checked and adjusted if necessary.
The road test will allow the suspension to settle.

NOTE: GTR lookup sequence is as follows:
GTR Home > NAS > Service Information/ LA – LR3 > Workshop Manuals > Bookmark “Chassis/Suspension/204-00: Suspension System – General Information” Link “Four-Wheel Alignment (57.65.04)”

CAUTION: GTR identifies an alignment specification range.
The exact “TARGET SPECIFICATIONS” in the table below should be used on vehicles that have experienced uneven tire wear.
When setting suspension geometry after front or rear/upper or lower control arm bushing replacement, the rear toe should be set to the TARGET SPECIFICATION in the table.

3. Refer to GTR section 204-00 Four-Wheel Alignment operation 57.65.04 and adjust the front and rear wheel alignment to the “TARGET” specification figures noted in the table below:
TOE ADJUSTMENT
TARGET
SPECIFICATIONS
(decimal degrees)
Front total toe + 0.03
Left-hand rear toe + 0.18
Right-hand rear toe + 0.18
Rear total toe + 0.36

There are several threads where some ingenious people have installed car computers with upgraded navigiation & audio capabilities into their Land Rover LR3’s.  Here are a few links:

• Dan Chapman via DWEB
• Arsi via Disco3.co.uk
• Christyler via Disco3.co.uk and part 2

Dan Chapman has done a tutorial on upgrading the factory subwoofer in the Land Rover LR3.  There are a couple of sub’s that will “drop-in” the OEM location, but that’s not Dan’s style..

Here is the link to DWEB.

There is an excellent post on DWeb by Robert Page on how to replace the brake pads on the LR3, complete with tools list and part numbers.  Thanks Robert!
I have archived a PDF copy of this thread, with the full size photos here.

I have a Jeep with 35″ tires, and an LR3 with 31.5″ tires. I have on board air in each vehicle, but slightly different set-ups. Today I tested them head to head to see what could be learned.

• Viair 400c hardmount, no tank. Direct hose connection
• Viair 450c hardmount, 2.0 gallon onboard tank, typically charged between 100-125psi for each test.

• Tire A: Cooper Zeon LTZ - 285/60/18
  31.6″ tire, 6.7″ sidewall, 11.2″ wide
• Tire B: ProComp Xterrian - 315/70/17
  34.4″ tire, 8.7″ sidewall, 12.4″ wide (35/12.5/17)

The Viair 400 fills Tire A as follows:

- 15psi to 42psi: 3:15 minutes (typical sand pressure)
- 25psi to 42psi: 2:30 minutes (typical off road pressure)

The Viair 450 fills Tire A as follows:
- 15psi to 42psi: NOT TESTED (typical sand pressure)
- 24psi to 42psi: 4:30 minutes (typical off road pressure) The Viair 400 fills Tire B as follows: (typical off road pressure)
- 12psi to 32psi: 3:28 min The Viair 450 fills Tire B as follows: (typical off road pressure)
- 12psi to 32psi: 3:45 minutes (First tire with charged air tank)
- 12psi to 32psi: 4:47 minutes (tires #2 - 4) Fun facts:
- For the Viair 450 to fill the 2 gallon tank from 0-125psi takes 1:45 minutes
- For the large 35″ tires to deflate from 32psi to 12psi using Stauns: 5:30 minutes (seems like forever!)
- For the smaller 31.5″ tires to deflate from 42psi to 25psi using Stauns: 2:20 minutes
- For the smaller 31.5″ tires to deflate from 42psi to 15psi using Stauns: 4:40 minutes
- The 400c is rated for about 30 minutes continuous use before it reaches critical temp and shuts off. I can easily fill all the tires on two trucks in that time.
- The 450c is rated for 120 minutes continuous use, and may possibly keep going at cooler air temps.